Bourbon Trail Distillery Tour Review: Heaven Hill

It’s raining. Oh boy, is it raining. I’m sitting in the hotel because I don’t have anything planned until 10 am. I need to be at Heaven Hill at 10 to fulfill my reservations for the Behind the Scenes tour. It’s a $25 tour. Per person, but I think it’s going to be worth it. This one doesn’t have a distillery in it, just aging warehouses and a bottling facility. But, we didn’t get to see the bottling facility on the other in depth tour so it’s all good.

It’s 9:15. I’m impatient. It’s going to be a good day. I can feel it. And I really want to get it started. So I do. It’s not even a ten minute drive away from the hotel so I drive around for a while. Driving in the rain isn’t very exciting, unless it is. Then it get’s a bit too exciting. So I go back to the parking lot and just wait. It’s less than a half hour, I have the iPad, so I’m set for a while.

At about 9:55 people start gathering around the door. I’m thinking that I better get up there too. My tour starts as soon as the doors open so it doesn’t hurt to be up there when they do.

When the doors open at ten a older gentleman says to us: “Who’s here for a tour. We have a deluxe tour starting at 10:10. Here’s a sticker to show you’re on the tour. What’s your name? Where are you from?” He works his way through the group until he gets to my wife and I. 

“I actually have reservations for the Behind the Scenes tour.” 

He frowns. “Well, I have some bad news for you. We aren’t running that tour today. Whoever took that reservation shouldn’t have” I’m thinking he’s kidding. Trying to be funny. Why would a company take your reservation, email you a confirmation and then not contact you if the tour was cancelled?

“But I received an email confirmation. It has today’s date and this time.” I counter. 

“Sorry. Do you want to go on the Deluxe Tour? What’s your name? Where are you from?”

Well, I want to do a tour at each so I decide to try to make the best of it. My wife is extremely upset. She doesn’t think that good customer service is too much to ask or that bad should be rewarded. She has a good point, but it’s my call so I decide to move ahead with what we’re handed. 

Compared to the other tours, what we are handed is not very much. (Looking back, I hope that my experience was not colored too much by my disappointment.) The tour starts out as they all do, with a movie. It is basically a big commercial for their business with a bit of history of Bourbon and Kentucky thrown in for good measure. Not a bad movie. But, I’m still upset, otherwise I might actually enjoy it.  

After the movie we get up and follow the tour guide outside. We walk along a path that has very pretty flowers along it to a crosswalk where we cross the street to go into an aging warehouse. Along the way the guide is giving us a bit more of the history of the company and a run down on the products they make.  

Once we get into the warehouse, I’m immediately less mad. Who could be upset with the wonderful smell that surrounds you when you are in a building like that? This is a good warehouse tour. Every company handles their barrels a different way. Some store them in one spot for 10 years, others rotate them as they age so they get the benefits of all the various climactic conditions in the building.

Then it is back outside and back across the street. Another run down of the products they make. Or actually a continuation. They make a lot of stuff.

Once we are back in the center the guide proceeds to show us the signage inside the building. The parts of the tour that you could see on a self guided walk through the building. 

Finally it is time for the tasting. Now, this part really is really well done. Heaven hill really goes in depth to make sure you know what you are tasting and quizzes you on the flavors. To show you that you really don’t have the training to taste for a living, they test you on two scents that are stored in small vials at your seat. Most folks get them wrong. I did.

After you smell the samples and look at them in the light you are allowed to taste them. Really well done. The only part I really don’t like is the contestant sales pitch about other products. But I can forgive it in light of the quality of the tasting.

Then on to the gift shop to give them some of my money. You know reward them for the disappointment. 

So, overall I probably wouldn’t do this tour again. I’d probably just go into the gift shop to get my passport stamped and visit the gift shop. Especially if you are taking other tours. A movie, an aging warehouse, an explanation of the self guided tour signs and a tasting were not really worth my entire morning. 

I still think that the Behind the Scenes tour sounds great, but I probably won’t try again. If you do, please call ahead to confirm that you actually have a tour. After the tour guide asked who took my reservation (I didn’t answer, I didn’t know) he told me that the person tried to get ahold of me, but couldn’t. Strange since they were able to get ahold of me to send me the email confirmation. 

So far, not a good day.

Bourbon Trail Distillery Tour Review: Four Roses

It’s getting on into late afternoon by the time we pull up to the Spanish Mission style building that is the Four Roses Distillery. We are pretty sure that we’ve missed the tour we’re aiming for, but are content to wait around until the next one. As we walk up to the building a young man opens the door for us and asks: “You guys want a tour?” Since our answer is yes, he points us over to a side room and tells us to go ahead and join the one that’s starting since the video has just started. 

As far as videos go, this one is about the same as the rest. Pretty, well made, etc. But this one shows how the barrels are fired. I’m happy as none of the rest have done that. 

After the video we are gathered around a white board where a small older lady gives us the run down on just what goes into making Four Roses Bourbon. She explains a bit of the history of the name and the distillery. And the fact that between two recipes and five strains of yeast (or was that five recipes and two strains of yeast? no, I think it was the first one) they have ten flavor profiles to play with when blending the various barrels to get the different varieties of Four Roses Bourbon whiskey.

Run down finished, we go outside. It’s a nice afternoon so we are content to linger as we allow a couple stragglers to catch up. We wander around the outside of the building next door. This is the main production floor. We go around it to see the hammer mill where they turn the grains into power on an as needed basis for fermenting. We can’t go inside since there is no telling when the hammer will start up. 

We continue our journey around the production building to check out the grain receiving facility. It’s a small building so we just peek inside to avoid disturbing the workers inside. 

Then we get to the main event. We walk back around to the entry of the production facility. As we go inside we are led to the yeast cooker. This is the only place we are allowed to see the yeast in a viable form. It sort of looks like really bubbly porridge. 

Then we get to see the fermenting vats. These are a mixture of wood vats and steel ones. Apparently each gives a slightly different flavor. I’ll have to take their word for that. Obviously. 

We walk across a catwalk, over to the stills. There are two here, a column still and a pot still. The column does most of the work of boiling off the alcohol, the pot acts as a doubler to raise the proof. As we walk across the catwalk we got to see the big steel holding tanks (almost two stories high) and all the pipes running every which way. This is either a plumbers dream or nightmare. Maybe both since at least some of those pipes are carrying white dog whiskey. 

After a look at the working still and then a peek inside a replica that is there for us to view we head back to where we started for a tasting. But can I take a moment to say just how happy I am for the replica, you get to see the perforated plates that the tour guides and videos keep talking about. And for the first time, I think I can start to get a handle on how the column still works. The guide didn’t mention it, but it may be the coolest part of the tour for me.

So then back for a tasting. We get to taste the basic Four Roses (what they call their Yellow Label), the Small Batch and the Single Barrel. The Yellow Label is ok, nothing to write home about, and the Single Barrel is hard to swallow. No that isn’t a bad thing. It literally feels like it’s stuck in your throat, but the subsequent sips are all the tastier for it. I really enjoy the Small Batch though. And that is what I end up buying. 

I buy it in the gift shop. It’s a small gift shop, but very well stocked. I also buy a very nice rocks glass, etched with their logo. The Bourbon Trail distilleries are nothing, if not classy.

I’d do this tour again in a heartbeat. Next time I might make an appointment to visit their bottling facility over near Jim Beam as well. That part looks pretty cool too. 

Bourbon Trail Distillery Tour Review: Wild Turkey

The second distillery we visited was the Wild Turkey distillery. I wasn’t expecting much from this one to be sure. I’d read a few things that had made me almost decide to skip it altogether. That would have been a mistake. This was a good tour. 

It is a fairly short drive from Versailes to Lawrenceburg. Warm sun makes for a cheerful drive. The drive ends just after the bridge over the Kentucky River gorge. On the other side was a big sign welcoming us to Wild Turkey. Turn the corner, make a left and you’re there. 

The gift shop is a small house. Brown painted trim and a rocking turkey greet you at the front door. That’s right, a rocking turkey. The gift shop is comfortably run down. Not like they don’t care,  it looked like it was intentionally so. The staff is dressed comfortably in t-shirts, work shirts and one had a pull over windbreaker. Not going to feel under dressed at this one. I’m immediately very comfortable. 

The next tour was about to start so I get my name on the list and look around for a bit. I see some bottles where you can get personalized labels. I make a note to pick one up later. 

The tour starts with a bus ride to the newly opened new distillery. On the way the tour guide apologizes for not having the landscaping finished yet. But says that they wanted to make sure we got to see the inside anyway. We are shown the grain receiving area and the silos where it is held until needed. This was certainly a bigger operation than Woodford Reserve. 

We went inside, went up the stairs and watched a movie starring Jimmy and Eddie Russell, the Master distiller and his assistant/son. After the movie we turn and look through the windows along the right side of the movie room and are shown the yeast cooker and the mash cooker through the windows. 

After that we leave the movie room and are shown to the fermenting room. Wild Turkey had the strangest looking fermenting product. It looked like brains on top and was the only distillery that had that pattern occurring. There were at least 20 30,000 gallon fermentation tanks (i have a photo of number 20, but there may have been more). The fermentation room smelled great. I love the smell of the fermentation rooms in these places. 

Through another window we are shown a control room where two employees can run the entire plant. Big plant for only two employees. That’s a lot of automation. 

The next part of the tour is the still. You can see and get a brief explanation of how the column still works (once again through glass). While we were looking through the windows, Master Distiller Jimmy Russell stops over and thanks us all for taking the tour. I don’t know if the does that for all the tours, but it was a nice touch. He seemed like a very nice guy.

Next we go back down stairs and across the parking lot to the barreling center. This is a pretty cool assembly line looking place (no assembly, it just looked like there should have been) where empty barrels come in off of one truck work their way through a series of conveyors and end up at the filling station. After that they go back out the door and into another truck which will take them to an aging warehouse. 

Speaking of which that’s where we went next. We took another short bus ride down to the old distillery where there are still a lot of barrels aging. We got a very quick tour of the grounds and entered the rick house. Once again you are hit with the excellent smell of old oak and alcohol. Angel’s Share smells awesome. After a short discussion about how long things are aged it is back to the gift shop for a tasting. 

We get to choose two of six different whiskeys. There are four bourbons, a rye and a bourbon honey liqueur. I got the Russell’s Reserve Rye and the Kentucky Spirit. The wife had the American Honey. We both liked our choices. She liked hers a lot.

After the tasting I bought my bottle of Rare Breed with a personalized label and headed over to the next distillery on the list. 

I liked this tour. The new distillery grounds will be very pretty once the landscaping is done. It was the only tour where we saw barreling actually occurring. The tour guide was very informative, even if he did seem a bit bored by the information itself. Overall, it would have been a mistake to miss this one. 

Bourbon Trail Distillery Tour Review: Woodford Reserve-Corn to Cork

The roads leading up to the distillery are narrow. They wind between rolling hills covered with grass, green and glowing, in the early morning sun. Horses stand together in the distance enjoying each others company. And I’m sitting in the passenger seat of the family van, amazed at just how unexpectedly picturesque the scene was. 

When we got to the distillery, the only people in the parking lot were workmen who where there to install the new copper gutters. We had reservations for the 9:30 am Corn to Cork tour. I got there at 8:55 am. The doors were unlocked so I walked in. I immediately felt underdressed. I knew I would be walking through some factories so I dressed for comfort in a T-shirt, jeans and a hoodie. I was the only customer in the building not wearing at least a sport coat. 

The lobby of the distillery is all shiney wood. There are educational displays, some tables, and a tasting bar. The employees are in logoed polo shirts and a pair of khaki pants. This is a place that seeps quality. Every detail has been looked to. 

As I said earlier, I had reservations for the Corn to Cork tour. This is a small tour. There were seven of us. My wife and I, two other couples and a baby. A very good baby I might add. The tour started with a short movie. Basically a commercial for bourbon, Kentucky, and Woodford Reserve. After the movie, we got a small lecture on the history and science of bourbon. This tour was huge on the science. 

After the movie we took a short bus ride down the hill to the actual distillery. After we disembarked we were informed that we would not be able to see the last part of the tour. It seems that for us, Corn to Cork would be Corn to Aging Warehouse. I’d have liked to get a partial refund due to this, since we were aguably missing about a third of the tour and this was a $10 tour. 

After the initial disappointment, the first thing I’m struck with is how pretty the historic stone buildings are. We are shown a line of freshly filled barrels and the information on them is explained to us. After that we go inside the fermenting building. 

Inside the fermenting building the guide explains the three grains they use and where they come from. (Minnesota Rye and Wisconsin Malted Barley, w00t!). Then we travel up a set of stairs to look at the mash cooker and the fermenting tanks. The tour guide pulls a sample from the tanks and we’re given a taste of the fermenting beer. 

After the tanks, we go onto their lab. There we are given a demonstration of how distilling works in a bit of lab equipment. We are shown yeast through the lab’s microscope and we see how they test the grain once it arrives at the distillery.

After we see the small demonstration we get to see the real thing taking place in the three copper stills out in the distilling room. We get an explaination of the barrels, a soft sell on the possiblities of buying an entire barrel and see how a barrel is filled.

After that it is a short walk to the aging warehouse. If you have never been in an aging warehouse it is probably the best smell a bourbon lover could smell. The barrels make the flavor and all you smell is wood and alcohol. 

After that would be the bottling, but we didn’t get to do to that. Instead we walked up the hill to the tasting. Along the way the tour guide, told us a bit about the fossils in the steps. And a bit about the rocks that make them up. Loved that. 

The one knock on this tour, and I didn’t know it at the time (since it was the first one), was that we were sort of left alone to go get our tasting. At other distilleries, we got an explaination of the stuff we were tasting along with the tour guide. Since Woodford Reserve makes one bourbon, you could say that the entire tour was that. But we were just sort of pointed to the bar as he rushed off. To the next tour? Maybe. Who knows. 

So, overall aside from the shortened tour, this was great. So much fun. I loved all the science that the tour guide gave us. I really felt like we were being taken good care of and if I decide to do it again, I would ask if I could request the same guy. He was excellent. Great tour. Might have been the best. Definately top two out of the seven I went on.