Cream of Kentucky Bottled-in-Bond Rye

So I went in for a six pack of beer. I was making pizza that night and I really prefer to have beer with my pizza. And beer was all I was going to buy. Honest.

The layout of my local store means that you can easily just not buy bourbon. When you walk in and see the counter. Can’t miss it, it’s an island in the middle of the room. Turn to the right and you’ll see liqueurs and beyond those will be whiskey. Go past the counter and the store is all wine. Turn right and there will be the beer coolers. And I had planned to turn right. The problem with that plan is facing the door as you walk in is the locked “fancy booze” case. Right near the counter and the first thing you see as you walk in.

In that case, was a bottle that caught my eye as I walked past. It was Cream of Kentucky Rye. It was $129.97. Three cents under my “personal price ceiling.” Beyond $130, I’d have to be on vacation and getting a “souvenir” or at the very least check in with my wife, the accountant, to see how things look before buying the bottle. The personal price ceiling was implemented to be an easy way to not be tempted into over-priced whiskey. And yes, I’m aware that it is quite a bit too high to avoid over-priced whiskey. The level is a holdover from when it was set to match the annual cost of the Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch back when people had a shot at being able to buy it.

So what is Cream of Kentucky and why did it make my beer run so expensive? Well, the answer to the first question is that it is an old brand that was revived by Jim Rutledge, the former Master Distiller at Four Roses. That is also the main answer to the second question too come to think of it. I’m a big believer in Jim Rutledge’s ability to make whiskey. So much so that I was one of the backers on the short-lived Kickstarter to help fund his distillery. So as this Rye was the first time I’d seen one of his new brands on a shelf, I knew it needed to come home with me. It was only after I got it home that I noticed that in my excitement I’d overlooked the fact that it was made by Kentucky Artisan Distillery, a distillery that is very hit or miss for me as I don’t really care for their house flavor profile.

So let’s dig in and see how this tastes.

Cream of Kentucky Bottled-in-Bond Rye

Purchase Info: $129.97 for a 750 mL bottle at Viking Liquor Barrel, Prior Lake, MN

Price per Drink (50 mL): $8.67

Details: 50% ABV. No age statement so over 4 years old. Made from 100% Rymin Rye Grain.

Nose: Brown sugar, nutmeg, orange zest, and hints of cedar and dried grain.

Mouth: Very spicy. Notes of dried grains, cedar, caramel, and chocolate.

Finish: Warm and of medium length. Cedar notes that fade to reveal caramel and chocolate.

Thoughts: This is an ok craft whiskey. I've had better, but I've certainly also had much worse. If I were handed this blind, I would have probably guessed it was bourbon and not rye because it is pretty sweet, but that happens at times with ryes out of Kentucky. It does follow that Kentucky Artisan Distillery (KAD) flavor profile pretty closely, which for my tastes is unfortunate. Not sure if it is the yeast they use or what causes that, but it isn’t for me.

So onto the issue of the price. When I saw Jim Rutledge's name on a $130 whiskey, I had very high expectations. Not just because of the name on the bottle, but because I have a certain baseline expectation for a bottle that costs that much. To say this is a disappointment is an understatement. At half the cost, I'd have been very happy with the experience. I'd have probably still given it a "meh" rating due to it following the KAD flavor profile (remember meh means “not bad whiskey, just not for me”) but I’m more forgiving of whiskeys that cost less. I hold expensive whiskies to higher standards. So, yeah, based on cost and flavor, this gets a “meh” rating.

At the end of the day, if you like other brands made by Kentucky Artisan Distillers (Jefferson's, Whiskey Row, or Corner Creek), you'll probably like this. If you'd normally give those a pass, do the same here.

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Rossville Union 2022 Barrel Proof

I’d like to thank ByrnePR and the Ross & Squib Distillery for providing this review sample with no strings attached.

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Image elements courtesy Ross & Squibb Distillery.

Tonight is the NFL Draft. And while I only sort of follow NFL football, I am a college football diehard. And this is one event that cements the two together. And I love it. I used to watch the entire weekend way back when it was just Saturday and Sunday. I love it because I get to see the culmination of many of the storylines that ESPN has force-fed to us over the last few years on their college football shows. Whether it proves those stories correct or incorrect is part of what I find interesting. Team X decided to go with somebody from North Dakota State instead of an SEC or Big Ten powerhouse? Which paid shill is going to throw the biggest fit over that? The unintended drama is fun. Plus I like seeing kids have all their dreams come true.

And yes, I’m old enough that I refer to kids in their mid-20s as “kids.”

And what does that have to do with tonight’s whiskey? Well, for the longest time, MGP (now branded as Ross & Squibb) was a powerhouse in American Whiskey much like North Dakota State is a powerhouse in college football. There is no argument that they dominate their competition, but you’d have to be a pretty knowledgeable fan to know about it.

MGP supplied whiskey for the biggest rye brands in the country. Think Diageo’s Bulleit rye as an example. But they didn’t get much credit for that outside of hardcore fans. Mostly because no one wanted to tell anyone that what was in the bottle was purchased from a distillery in Indiana. These days that is changing as Ross & Squibb have their own brands that they produce. One of which is Rossville Union Rye.

Rossville Union is a rye that I find on the shelves quite often. I also see a lot of store picks of it as well. They tend to be very delicious. I pick them up quite often. There is a Barrel Proof offering that I really like but seldom see. And that’s because I recently learned that it is released annually as a limited edition product. (It’s probably good that I didn’t know that, or I’d have spent a lot more money on Rossville Union seeing as I would actually be purchasing those bottles when I saw them instead of saying “next time.”)

18,000 bottles were produced this year from a batch of 82 barrels. The final proof is 117.2° proof, it is age stated at 7 years old, and it retails for a suggested price of $69.99. Let’s see how it tastes.

Rossville Union 2022 Barrel Proof

Purchase Info: This sample bottle was sent to me by the producer for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $69.99 for a 750 mL bottle.

Price per Drink (50 mL): $4.67

Details: 58.6% ABV. 7 years old.

Nose: Herbal mint, cinnamon candies, cedar, and oak

Mouth: Hot, spicy, and sweet. Notes of herbal mint, cinnamon, cedar, vanilla, and hints of dark chocolate.

Finish: Long and warm. Notes of cinnamon candies, cedar, and mint.

Thoughts: This is delicious. So much so that, should I see them and if the store allows, I will be a jerk and buy two. Rossville Union 2022 Barrel Proof is just a deliciously-spicy rye that has enough age to notice but not so much that it takes over. I freakin’ love this one.

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Yellowstone Family Recipe

I’d like to thank ByrnePR and Limestone Branch Distillery for providing this review sample with no strings attached.

I am a huge supporter of the National Parks. About half of my annual charitable giving goes to organizations that support the National Parks and the Park Service. And Yellowstone is one of my favorites. I have a goal to visit every National Park and in light of that, I don’t do a lot of return trips. Yellowstone is one that I’ve returned to multiple times.

So, when I found out that the good people at Limestone Branch were honoring the 150th Anniversary of Yellowstone National Park with a new addition to their Yellowstone Bourbon lineup. I knew I needed to showcase it. And it was an easy decision as I’ve liked almost everything that has come out under the Yellowstone name since the brand moved production to Limestone Branch and their Master Distiller Stephen Beam.

So what makes this one so special? Here is what the distillery has to say about that:

Inspired by a recipe found in notes from Beam’s grandfather, Guy Beam, and containing cloned yeast using DNA from a yeast jug belonging to Beam’s great-grandfather, Minor Case Beam, Yellowstone Family Recipe reflects the original Yellowstone Bourbon mash bill and carries its original namesake’s six-year age statement. It is this recipe that Stephen Beam has been distilling at Limestone Branch Distillery since 2015 and is now ready to share with the world.

This will retail for about $70 and will roll out in three allocations throughout 2022. The first will be in Wyoming and Montana to celebrate their namesake Park’s momentous anniversary. Shortly after it will also release in Kentucky, both at the distillery and at retail. The second release will be nationwide in August 2022. The final will be sometime in the fourth quarter of 2022.

Going back to the press release for a quote from Stephen Beam:

“Even before opening the doors at Limestone Branch Distillery, I dreamed about producing a bourbon that was faithful to old family recipes and maintained my family’s heritage and tradition of distilling,” said Beam. “Yellowstone Family Recipe Bourbon is the culmination of decades of dreaming and more than 10 years of effort at the distillery. I believe bourbon lovers will enjoy drinking Yellowstone Family Recipe as much as I enjoyed recreating it!” 

So let’s see how it tastes.

Yellowstone Family Recipe

Purchase Info: This sample was provided by the producer for review purposes. The suggested retail price is: $69.99

Price per Drink (50 mL): $4.67

Details: 50% ABV. 6 years old.

Nose: Clean Hay, tobacco, caramel, and apricot jelly.

Mouth: Apricot jelly, green apple, cinnamon, nutmeg, oak, tobacco, and mint.

Finish: Medium to long and warm. Notes of apricot jelly, tobacco, cinnamon, and menthol.

Thoughts: I like this, but it is certainly a "change-of-pace" bourbon for me. As it doesn't follow the stereotypical bourbon flavor profile (the apricot and tobacco combination is right up front and runs throughout), I wouldn't want it everyday. But I would happily grab this when I'm tired of the same ol' thing.

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Blood Oath Pact 8

I’d like to thank ByrnePR and Lux Row for providing this review sample with no strings attached.

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In previous years, I’ve shared my love of many of Lux Row Master Distiller John Rempe’s creations. Including many of the Blood Oath series. They are always one-time recipes. Most of them have included some sort of finished bourbon in the blend. This time they are using Calvados, which has me pretty excited. While I like a good brandy, I really like a good Apple Brandy. Which is what Calvados is: very good French Apple Brandy. Well, at least the ones that I’ve had have been good. I guess I can’t speak to the entire drink category.

Anyway, let’s hear what Lux Row has to say about all of this.

Blood Oath Pact 8 features a combination of the finest bourbons Rempe could find, including a 14-year ryed bourbon and an 11-year ryed bourbon, as well as an 8-year ryed bourbon finished in Calvados casks. Calvados is an apple or pear brandy from the Normandy region in northwestern France that is distilled from cider and aged for a minimum of two years in oak casks. These casks impart their unique aroma and flavor to make Blood Oath Pact 8 a one-of-a-kind pour.

So let’s see how this one tastes, shall we?

Blood Oath Pact 8 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Purchase Info: This sample was provided by the producer for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $119.99 for a 750 mL bottle.

Price per Drink (50 mL): $8.00

Details: 49.3% ABV. 3 Bourbons: a 14-year-old bourbon, an 11-year-old bourbon, and an 8-year-old bourbon that was finished in Calvados casks.

Nose: Almond, caramel apple, and hints of brown sugar and cinnamon.

Mouth: Nicely spicy with notes of cinnamon and nutmeg to start. Notes of herbal vanilla, apple, and brown sugar follow.

Finish: Warm and long. Notes of cinnamon and nutmeg.

Thoughts: This is quite tasty. I think that if I saw this on the shelf and passed it by, my wife would be quite upset with me, even at the newly increased price. I'm a fan, but she really likes it. This is odd and worth noting because she is not a fan of Calvados or any Brandy for that matter. Apple or otherwise. I guess that just goes to show the value of having a great blender.

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Basil Hayden Subtle Smoke

I’d like to thank the folks from Beam Suntory and their PR teams for sharing this sample with no strings attached.

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Let’s just get the elephant out of the room first. I haven’t been too nice to members of the Basil Hayden line-up the last few times I’ve reviewed them. I used to see Basil Hayden as a great entry into bourbon. Gentle, approachable, and just upscale enough in price and design to attract the eye of people who don’t know anything about bourbon. 10 years ago it was a great strategy for bringing people into the Bourbon fold. Then the expressions got just … weird, the price went up, and those new expressions didn’t seem to showcase the approachable to entry-level mentality that I had assigned the brand.

And yes, I’m aware this is a “me problem” not a “brand problem.” It was just the only way I could square what the brand was with what the product(s) cost. But now, Basil Hayden has a new product out that I think could slot right into my early thoughts about the brand. Basil Hayden Subtle Smoke is a terrific introduction to smoked whiskeys. I’m just going to lay that out right away.

But wait! I hear the old-timers say, “You hate smoked whiskeys. How can you give this a fair shake?” And that is true. I am no fan of whiskeys that have a smoke influence. But, I do really like a smoked cocktail now and then. I used to add a half teaspoon of MB Roland Black Dog to an Old Fashioned now and then when I wanted a smoke influence. These days I use Smoke Boards for the same. And based on the way this product was described, it felt like it might be the first smoked whiskey I could enjoy neat. So I requested a sample and here we are.

So what is it? Well here is what the press release has to say:

Basil Hayden Subtle Smoke is crafted differently from most other smoky spirits. The steps to create this unique bourbon begin with toasting and lightly charring a secondary barrel. Afterwards, hickory-smoked chips are delicately ignited at a constant feed to produce smoke, which is then pumped into the barrel, resulting in soft, charred notes. This six-month secondary aging process provides a smoother, more subtle take on smoky spirits, and creates the perfectly sophisticated, yet approachable introduction to both bourbon and Basil Hayden.

And how does it taste? Let’s find out.

Basil Hayden Subtle Smoke

Purchase Info: This sample was provided by the producer for review purposes, the suggested retail price is $49.99.

Price per Drink (50 mL): $3.33

Details: 40% ABV. Finished in smoked barrels.

Nose: Butterscotch and (as the name says) subtle smoke.

Mouth: Gentle with smoke notes to start. Beyond that is cinnamon and caramel.

Finish: Short but warm. Notes of smoke and cinnamon.

Thoughts: I'm not a fan of this one neat. I'm afraid that, for me, the smoke is not subtle enough. But, as stated above, that is a “me problem.” If you like a kiss of smoke in your whiskey, this could be one to try. Because I do like smoked cocktails, I ended up trying it in an Old Fashioned. This paired wonderfully with my orange bitters, agave syrup, and a zested orange peel.

So the bottom line for me is that this is a meh when neat but plays very nicely in a cocktail (keep the dilution down though, it is only 80 proof). So because I like it in a cocktail, I’m giving it a like rating.

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Thomas S. Moore Extended Cask Finish Bourbons, 2022: Part 2

I’d like to thank the folks at Sazerac for providing these review samples with no strings attached.

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This is the second part of a two-part series. In part one we discussed background information on the Thomas S. Moore line and reviewed the Merlot Cask and Cognac Cask versions. Tonight we are going to pick up where we left off by diving into the two bourbons that were finished in fortified wine casks.

Fortified wine is a style of wine that has had a distilled spirit, often brandy, added to it. Styles you may have heard of include Port, Marsala, Vermouth, and the ones we are interested in for tonight’s whiskeys: Sherry and Madeira. So what are Sherry and Madeira?

Sherry is a fortified wine made in the area near Cádiz, Spain. If you are a Scotch drinker, you’ll know that Sherry casks are often used for aging that style of Whiskey. Along with used Bourbon barrels of course. It probably isn’t surprising to find Bourbon producers following along with that practice. My main use for Sherry is in cooking. I have recipes for Sherried Potatoes and a Sherry Cake that I love.

Madeira is a fortified wine made on the Portuguese island of, you guessed it, Madeira. It is a bit less common in America today than it was in the past. Pre-Revolutionary War America was awash in Madeira. It was very possibly their favorite alcoholic beverage. In fact, George Washington was such a fan that he had copious amounts brought on campaign with him in the War. And he ended up enjoying it the rest of his life, literally on his deathbed. According to Atlas Obscura, the style ended up falling out of favor rather quickly after the War when the Federal government tried to pay off the war debts by levying a high import tax on it.

So now that we know a little about the finishing barrels, let’s see how these taste!

Thomas S. Moore Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Madeira Casks

Purchase Info: This sample was graciously provided by the distillery for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $69.99

Price per Drink (50 mL): $4.67

Details: 48.25% ABV. A variety of different types of Madeira barrels were used.

Nose: Caramel, vanilla, oak, and a faint note of lemon zest. After a few minutes "husky" notes of sandalwood and crème brûlée take over.

Mouth: The adjective that first popped into my head was "Round.” There are no sharp edges to this. Notes of cinnamon, crème brûlée, and oak.

Finish: Medium to long. Notes of caramel, citrus zest, vanilla, and cinnamon.

Thoughts: Sweet with a well-integrated influence from the fortified wine. It's quite lovely. I'm really enjoying it.

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Thomas S. Moore Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Sherry Casks

Purchase Info: This sample was graciously provided by the distillery for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $69.99

Price per Drink (50 mL): $4.67

Details: 49.35% ABV. The Sherry casks used previously held Oloroso Sherry.

Nose: Caramel alternating with butterscotch, nutmeg, and fresh mint.

Mouth: Caramel, chocolate, coffee, and bright cinnamon.

Finish: Medium in both warmth and length. Notes of caramel and coffee linger.

Thoughts: This reminds me so much of a fancy caramel coffee drink or a high-end caramel coated in dark chocolate and sea salt. It's delicious. Big fan!

Thoughts on the entire line: I'd buy any one of these. Sure, they have a different flavor than straight bourbon, but that's kinda the point. Bourbon with a bit of "something else" to complement it. And these finishes all complement the bourbon flavor very nicely. Which is something you can't always say about other finished bourbons. All of these are tasty, well-integrated spins on the traditional bourbon flavor profile.

Like I said earlier, I'd buy any one of these. If forced to choose, I'd go with the Sherry Cask. I'm really digging the candy/ coffee thing it has going on.

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Thomas S. Moore Extended Cask Finish Bourbons, 2022: Part 1

I’d like to thank the folks at Sazerac for providing these review samples with no strings attached.

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Back in late 2020, Sazerac released the first “ultra-premium brand” from the Barton 1792 Distillery. It was named Thomas S. Moore to honor the man who built the distillery that is now known as Barton 1792. It was, and still is, a line-up of bourbons that were aged for five to six years and then placed in a finishing barrel for somewhere between one to four additional years. Quoting the press release (2022 edition):

To create these whiskeys, Barton 1792’s signature high rye recipe bourbon was aged for five to six years in new charred oak barrels before filling other casks that previously matured various wines or spirits from around the world. These whiskeys are then left to age an additional one to four years. This extended cask-finishing method results in elegant whiskeys, each displaying a distinct flavor profile, reflecting nuances of both the bourbon and the finishing cask.

The initial release featured Port, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon finishes. Well, Thomas S. Moore is back for 2022 with a new set of finishes. These include two versions that have been finished in fortified wine barrels (Madeira and Sherry), one version that has been finished in Cognac barrels, and one that was finished in Merlot wine barrels. Back in early 2021 when I reviewed the initial releases, I thought it was an interesting concept that actually performed better than I had anticipated that it would. As such, I was excited when Sazerac announced that they were going to be releasing a new batch. And even happier when they agreed to send me a taste of each of them so that I could let you know if they were worth buying.

Tonight we will be looking at two of the four as I didn’t want this to get too long. The second set will come in Part 2.

Thomas S. Moore Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Merlot Casks

Purchase Info: This sample was graciously provided by the distillery for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $69.99

Price per Drink (50 mL): $4.67

Details: 46.65% ABV. The merlot barrels are from wineries in the Napa and Sonoma areas.

Nose: Oak, cinnamon, red fruits, and a touch of mint.

Mouth: Strong wine presence on the initial sip which fades to the background in subsequent sips. Lots of cinnamon and oak after the wine fades.

Finish: Long and not too warm. Very flavorful. Strong notes of Cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and oak.

Thoughts: I don't care for wine-finished bourbons generally. So when I got the strong wine presence on my initial sip, I was worried. I shouldn't have been. After that initial sip, this is full of bright and lively baking spice notes. Which are very tasty. I like this one. Surprisingly. I had guessed that I wouldn't.

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Thomas S. Moore Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Cognac Casks

Purchase Info: This sample was graciously provided by the distillery for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $69.99

Price per Drink (50 mL): $4.67

Details: 46.7% ABV. The cognac barrels used generally held cognac for six or more years previously.

Nose: Brown sugar, oak, and nutmeg.

Mouth: Dry with vibrant spice. Notes of nutmeg, cinnamon, brown sugar, vanilla, and a mild—but noticeable—Cognac influence.

Finish: On the shorter side of medium. A burst of cinnamon that fades relatively quickly.

Thoughts: This one has a subtle influence from its finishing barrel. If I was handed this blind, I'm not sure I would have known it was barrel finished. That said, it is delicious. Vibrant is the first word that came to mind and it stuck with me throughout the tasting.

As stated above, check out part 2 for the Madeira and Sherry Cask Finished editions.

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Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond, Spring 2022

I’d like to thank Heaven Hill for providing this review sample with no strings attached.

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They say that April showers bring May flowers (or they did when I was in elementary school 40 years ago), but here in Minnesota, sometimes they also bring snow. That’s right it’s snowing again. And so, I am locked in my office with the shades drawn simultaneously whining about it and pretending that it isn’t happening.

As any sane person would.

Actually, it isn’t that bad, I guess. April is usually hit or miss around here. Some years it is in the 80s and warm, other years you get six feet of snow in a week. At least so far the snow that falls is melting right away…I really do not want to try to dig out the snowblower again.

One thing that is not hit or miss though is the biannual release of Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond. They are always tasty (and almost always priced out of my budget). This release is no exception. Though at 17 years old, the age of this release is exceptional. Here is what the distillery has to say about the release:

The spring 2022 edition of Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey is the first 17-year-old of the nationally released series and features Bourbon pulled from across three floors of rickhouse V at Heaven Hill Distillery’s main campus. As a leader of the Bottled-in-Bond category, Heaven Hill is proud to offer a premium, allocated product within this special class that showcases the authenticity and quality of the American Whiskey portfolio.

And as their bonded whiskeys have won numerous competitions on this very site, I’d be inclined to agree with them on that last sentence. But onto what you are really here for, let's taste this puppy.

Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond, Spring 2022

Purchase Info: This sample was provided by the producer for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $185.

Price per Drink (50 mL): $12.33

Details: 50% ABV. 17 years old.

Nose: Caramel, vanilla, oak, and a touch of mint.

Mouth: Nice thick mouthfeel. Sweet with caramel and vanilla. Cinnamon spice. Lots of oak.

Finish: Medium in length and warmth. Lingering caramel chocolate and vanilla.

Thoughts: As you might have expected, this is delicious. It's been a while since I found a bourbon with vanilla sweetness on the finish. In fact, I'd say vanilla is the predominant note all the way through. Kinda tastes like an amazing chocolate chip cookie. And I do love chocolate chip cookies.

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