So I went in for a six pack of beer. I was making pizza that night and I really prefer to have beer with my pizza. And beer was all I was going to buy. Honest.
The layout of my local store means that you can easily just not buy bourbon. When you walk in and see the counter. Can’t miss it, it’s an island in the middle of the room. Turn to the right and you’ll see liqueurs and beyond those will be whiskey. Go past the counter and the store is all wine. Turn right and there will be the beer coolers. And I had planned to turn right. The problem with that plan is facing the door as you walk in is the locked “fancy booze” case. Right near the counter and the first thing you see as you walk in.
In that case, was a bottle that caught my eye as I walked past. It was Cream of Kentucky Rye. It was $129.97. Three cents under my “personal price ceiling.” Beyond $130, I’d have to be on vacation and getting a “souvenir” or at the very least check in with my wife, the accountant, to see how things look before buying the bottle. The personal price ceiling was implemented to be an easy way to not be tempted into over-priced whiskey. And yes, I’m aware that it is quite a bit too high to avoid over-priced whiskey. The level is a holdover from when it was set to match the annual cost of the Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch back when people had a shot at being able to buy it.
So what is Cream of Kentucky and why did it make my beer run so expensive? Well, the answer to the first question is that it is an old brand that was revived by Jim Rutledge, the former Master Distiller at Four Roses. That is also the main answer to the second question too come to think of it. I’m a big believer in Jim Rutledge’s ability to make whiskey. So much so that I was one of the backers on the short-lived Kickstarter to help fund his distillery. So as this Rye was the first time I’d seen one of his new brands on a shelf, I knew it needed to come home with me. It was only after I got it home that I noticed that in my excitement I’d overlooked the fact that it was made by Kentucky Artisan Distillery, a distillery that is very hit or miss for me as I don’t really care for their house flavor profile.
So let’s dig in and see how this tastes.
Cream of Kentucky Bottled-in-Bond Rye
Purchase Info: $129.97 for a 750 mL bottle at Viking Liquor Barrel, Prior Lake, MN
Price per Drink (50 mL): $8.67
Details: 50% ABV. No age statement so over 4 years old. Made from 100% Rymin Rye Grain.
Nose: Brown sugar, nutmeg, orange zest, and hints of cedar and dried grain.
Mouth: Very spicy. Notes of dried grains, cedar, caramel, and chocolate.
Finish: Warm and of medium length. Cedar notes that fade to reveal caramel and chocolate.
Thoughts: This is an ok craft whiskey. I've had better, but I've certainly also had much worse. If I were handed this blind, I would have probably guessed it was bourbon and not rye because it is pretty sweet, but that happens at times with ryes out of Kentucky. It does follow that Kentucky Artisan Distillery (KAD) flavor profile pretty closely, which for my tastes is unfortunate. Not sure if it is the yeast they use or what causes that, but it isn’t for me.
So onto the issue of the price. When I saw Jim Rutledge's name on a $130 whiskey, I had very high expectations. Not just because of the name on the bottle, but because I have a certain baseline expectation for a bottle that costs that much. To say this is a disappointment is an understatement. At half the cost, I'd have been very happy with the experience. I'd have probably still given it a "meh" rating due to it following the KAD flavor profile (remember meh means “not bad whiskey, just not for me”) but I’m more forgiving of whiskeys that cost less. I hold expensive whiskies to higher standards. So, yeah, based on cost and flavor, this gets a “meh” rating.
At the end of the day, if you like other brands made by Kentucky Artisan Distillers (Jefferson's, Whiskey Row, or Corner Creek), you'll probably like this. If you'd normally give those a pass, do the same here.
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