I’d like to thank Four Roses for providing this review sample with no strings attached.
Well, the Autumn Release season is finally here. When Four Roses says there's just over a month left until their annual release, you know that summer is almost over. It doesn’t matter what the calendar says or what society says. The official start of autumn is the day I get my hands on a bottle of Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch.
Or at least it used to be. They got too expensive for me to even consider buying them quite a while ago. Unfortunately, I have bad news on that front. This year’s release is the most expensive yet, with a suggested retail price of $220. So, even though I’ve been tasting and covering these releases since the 2009 edition, not all of you may have my level of experience and knowledge of the product. Let’s go over that a little first.
What is the Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch bourbon?
Every fall, Four Roses releases a bourbon that showcases their ten bourbon “recipes.” They have two mash bills and five yeast strains, which gives them a huge advantage when it comes to blending bourbons (don’t let them hear you call it blending, though; they’re still smarting over being forced to be a Blended Whiskey brand by corporate overlords for decades). They use all ten recipes for their main bourbon, one recipe (OBSV) for the Single Barrel, four (OBSK, OBSO, OESK, and OESO) for the Small Batch, and six (OBSV, OBSK, OBSF, OESV, OESK, OESF) for the Small Batch Select. The yearly Limited Edition Small Batch allows them to experiment with recipes and combinations not used in the main product line. In the past, releases have even used the Q yeast, one of my favorites, though not one that many people prefer. They also tend to use much older products than their mainline bourbons.
Ok, you listed a lot of codes in that last explanation. What do they mean?
The codes are a legacy of being part of the Seagram’s family before it disintegrated at the turn of the millennium. Each code corresponds to a specific combination of mash bill and yeast. Every code starts with "O," the old Seagram’s designation for the current Four Roses Distillery (they had a lot of distilleries). The second letter designates which mash bill is being used: "B" for the 35% rye mash bill or "E" for the 20% rye mash bill, the only two that Four Roses still uses. The third letter will always be "S" because it stands for “Straight Whiskey,” another legacy of Seagram’s diverse product portfolio. The final letter indicates the yeast strain: "V" for delicate fruit notes, "K" for slight spice, "O" for rich fruit notes, "Q" for floral notes (which I love), and "F" for herbal notes. Now, F and Q yeasts tend to make my favorite Four Roses bourbons. I love the herbal and fruity ones. If it tastes like JuicyFruit gum, I’m on board.
Great. So, which recipes are used in the Limited Edition Small Batch this year?
Great question. Brent Elliott used four batches of three different recipes this year: 39% of the product is a 16-year-old OESF, 31% is a 12-year-old OBSV, 23% is a 15-year-old OESK, and the final 7% is a 20-year-old OBSV. All barrels used in this batch were from the bottom three levels of Four Roses’ single-story warehouses.
This year’s release uses a 16-year-old batch of OESF, which I should love, but at that age, there’s a chance that the distillate influence has diminished. Barrels tend to take over in the double-digit ages. Master Distiller Brent Elliott backed this up during his media availability, noting that the OESF batch used "isn’t as typical of some of the ‘F’ strains." He continued that the barrel had taken over, with only echoes of the initial distillate left, and that it was included mainly for mouthfeel.
So, is it any good?
Let’s find out.
Four Roses 2024 Limited Edition Small Batch
Purchase Info: This sample was supplied to me at no cost for review purposes. The suggested retail price is $220 for a 750 mL bottle.
Price per Drink (50 mL): $14.67
Nose: Caramel apple, milk chocolate, oak, and vanilla. Reminds me of a cross between a Milky Way candy bar and apple cider.
Mouth: Cinnamon, cocoa, oak, caramel, vanilla and hints of fruit.
Finish: Medium to long in length and warm. Notes of Cinnamon, herbal anise, and cola.
Thoughts: Let me just state off the bat that this is a good bourbon (and if you thought there was a "but" coming, here it is), but I’m relatively disappointed—not in the liquid itself, but in the liquid compared to its predecessors. For me, the great thing about Four Roses is that they have the opportunity to make bourbon that’s well outside the stereotypical bourbon flavor profile, even if their flagship product, Four Roses Single Barrel, sticks fairly close to the vanilla/caramel/spice stereotype. To me, this tastes like the barrel took over too much. Some people love that; I don’t. If you’d given me this without a label, I couldn’t have told you who made it. It could have been an extra-aged bourbon from Four Roses, Heaven Hill, Diageo, or many others. Don’t get me wrong, I like it, but these used to “Wow!” me. This one doesn’t, and for almost $15 per pour, it should “Wow” everyone who tastes it. So even if I see this (I won’t; I live in a state that gets little and has even less that isn’t in a lottery), I’ll probably pass. $220 for a single bottle of whiskey is a bit too rich for my blood, even if I am a fanboy.
I need to get my hands on some of those F or Q Four Roses batches again. Preferably around ten years old. That’s my happy place. Brent, if you’re reading…hook a guy up, will ya? 😉
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